Q: I received a quote for concrete surfacing of my crawlspace, and they said mold would grow beneath the system and cause air quality concerns. Is this true?

A: No. The EcoSeal System prevents oxygen from ever reaching the mold, eliminating future growth, and completely divorces mold, mildew, moisture and soil gases beneath the system from the crawlspace air. 

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Q: During heavy rains I get standing water in my crawlspace. What should I do?

A: Prior to installing the EcoSeal System, you will first need to install a sump pit, sump pump and drain tile to address this problem. We offer a complete line of quality sump pumps and battery back-up systems.  

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Q: Can the cracks in my foundation wall be repaired?

A: Yes. Our supplier has been manufacturing and supplying contractors in the U.S. and Canada with epoxy and urethane resins for foundation crack repair for more than 20 years.   

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Q: I have cinder block walls that leak water. Will the EcoSeal System address this problem?

A: Yes. Wall seepage is directed beneath the system and drains harmlessly into the earth.  

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Q: I have fresh air vents in my crawl space. Once the EcoSeal System is installed, should I close them?

A: It depends. If you have a gas-fired appliance in your home (i.e. furnace or hot water heater), you should not close the vents without first checking with a licensed H.V.A.C. contractor. If the appliance is drawing air from the crawlspace, closing the vents could create a dangerous carbon monoxide problem. Otherwise, by all means do close the vents. This will prevent moisture during summer months and cold air during winter months from entering the crawlspace. Typically, our encapsulation process includes sealing the vents.

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Q: What's the best way to close existing crawl space vents?

A: From the inside. Simply apply moldable roll adhesive around the vent opening, cut a piece of waterproof insulating blanket and stick it into place with foil side facing out. For colder climates, use two layers. These are the steps we take when installing complete encapsulation for a conditioned crawl space.

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Q: What should I do if I get water on top of the EcoSeal floor?

A: Use a screwdriver or utility knife to puncture a hole in the liner, and the drain fabric will allow the water to seep out. Wipe area clean and patch with seaming tape.

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Q: How do I test for radon gas?

A: Simple home test kits are available at most hardware stores for approximately $30 or less.

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Q: How are voids sealed around pipes, support posts, etc.?

A: We use a roll adhesive that we mold into place. (It will never dry out and is non-toxic and safe to handle without gloves).

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Q: My block foundation walls "weep" water during heavy rains. Is it OK to cover them?

A: Absolutely. However, our inspector may recommend drilling "weep holes" in the bottom course of blocks prior to installing the insulating blanket, then installing 4" drain pipe along the perimeter, draining to a sump system. Using a half-inch masonry bit, we drill holes in each block along the base of the wall. This allows water within the wall cavities to drain harmlessly beneath the system into the drainage pipe.

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Q: I have block foundation walls. The top of the wall has hollow cavities. How do I stop moisture and radon gas from escaping from this area?

A: We often attach the insulation to the sill plate (wood plank that lies flat on top of wall) instead of the foundation wall. This seals the top of the block walls, preventing moisture and radon gas within the wall from escaping into the crawlspace. If there is no sill plate, we fill each void in the top of the blocks with insulation.

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Q: I have no insulation in the crawlspace now. How much R-value is needed?

A: We recommend R-6 for walls in mild climates and R-10 to R-20 combined with the Heat Shield for colder climates. HomeSpec installs R-30 bat insulation in the band board (the void above the foundation walls at the end of the joists.

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Q: Can the waterproof insulating blanket insulate the rim joist (wood area on top of foundation wall)?

A: Yes. We can simply cut and stick into place with a small piece of moldable roll adhesive. along with a mechanical fastener.

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Q: I have fiberglass insulation between my floor joists (crawlspace ceiling). Should it be removed?

A: Yes. Fiberglass insulation is a food source for mold and mildew. It traps moisture and causes wood decay. Never leave old insulation in place. We bag the insulation in the crawl space to avoid fiberglass fibers getting into the air.

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Q: Once the EcoSeal System is installed and my crawl space is clean and dry, is it a good idea to insulate between the floor joists (crawlspace ceiling)?

A: No. Just like a basement, the most effective method of insulating the crawlspace is to insulate the outside walls, stopping the cold from ever entering the crawl space.  

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Q: My floor above the crawlspace area always seems to be cold. Will the EcoSeal System help?

A: Yes. The EcoSeal Encapsulation System will help keep your floors warmer and reduce energy costs.

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Q: Wouldn't it be better to insulate the floor joists and then install a Heat Shield at the bottom of the joists?

A: No. To reflect radiant heat, you must have an air space.

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Q: Do you recommend attaching a fan to the ventilation pipe to "suck out" any radon gas?

A: No. This should never be needed. However, if this were done, we recommend that only an EPA-registered radon mitigation contractor do the work. Also, note that if a fan were attached, the vent pipe must be extended above the roof line of the home.

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Q: What about a power fan system to "suck out" the humid, moldy air in the crawlspace, instead of installing the EmeSeal System?

A: This practice has been attempted in many forms for many years. The problem is that all these systems "pull a vacuum" on the crawl space, actually accelerating the entry of moisture and soil gases. Simply put, they do not work in unsealed crawl spaces and often make matters worse.



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